Tasting Highlights' wine reviews are fresh out of the tasting room, offering a sneak peek of our editors' most recent scores and notes to WineSpectator.com members.
Senior editor Kim Marcus, our lead taster for California Chardonnay, has tasted nearly 500 different bottlings over the past year. This week, we've selected seven stellar examples from across the state, from the Sonoma Coast to Santa Barbara's Sta. Rita Hills.
Mayacamas is perched on Napa's Mount Veeder, a unique location for growing Chardonnay. The AVA has the coolest temperatures in Napa, save for Carneros, which borders Mount Veeder. Vines grow on steep slopes in this rugged, mountainous terrain, whose afternoon shade further extends an already lengthy growing season. These conditions give liveliness to the wines, and Mayacamas capitalizes on this, fermenting with little new oak or malolactic fermentation. The result is a vibrant and fresh Chardonnay that has become Mayacamas' hallmark style.
Duckhorn Wine Company's Migration is made in a contrasting style to that of Mayacamas, showing more oak influence from the 10 months of aging spent in 35 percent new oak barrels. Additionally, 75 percent of the juice goes through malolactic fermentation, yielding a plush and creamy style.
There are diverse choices if you're looking for value, too: Buehler's buttery and rich style, and Hahn's minerally, herbal version both clock in at $20 or less and are widely available.
MAYACAMAS Chardonnay Mount Veeder 2017
Vibrantly fresh, with well-proportioned flavors of McIntosh apple, Asian pear and dried quince, backed by fresh acidity. The minerally finish lingers with good snap. Drink now through 2024. 2,500 cases made.
MIGRATION Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2017
Offers a plush mouthfeel, with creamy richness to the ripe pear, apple tart and dried apricot flavors. Unctuous midpalate, revealing dried ginger and honeyed notes on the long finish. Drink now through 2025. 5,000 cases made.
CHAMISAL Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills 2017
Dried pineapple and mango notes flank the concentrated apple pastry and lemon meringue flavors. Well-structured, offering a creamy finish that lingers with plenty of spice. Drink now through 2024. 1,850 cases made.
SONOMA-LOEB Chardonnay Carneros Private Reserve 2017
Fresh, with mouthfilling savoriness and hints of minerality to the dried apple, glazed pear and pastry flavors. The broad finish is oak- and butter-filled. Drink now through 2023. 3,500 cases made.
J. WILKES Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley 2017
A spicy and fruity version, with a luscious mix of peach cobbler and apple pastry flavors that are supported by fresh acidity. The minerally finish lingers with savory hints. Drink now through 2023. 2,500 cases made.
BUEHLER Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2017
Hints of dried ginger accent the baked apple, pear and mango flavors, imbued with a buttery richness. Spicy on the finish, with some pastry details. Drink now through 2023. 14,400 cases made.
HAHN Chardonnay Monterey County 2017
Notes of graphite and dried green herb accent the ripe apple and dried pear flavors. Finishes with hints of wet stone. Drink now. 35,000 cases made.