ST.-COSME Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 $62 (95 points)

Offers mulled plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit mixed in with steeped black tea, sandalwood and tobacco leaf notes. A mineral edge adds cut and drive to the finish, while the black tea note smolders seductively. Built for the cellar. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2022 through 2036.