SEÑORIO DE SAN VICENTE Rioja 2004 $58 (96 points)

A great wine from a great vintage. This is mouthfilling, dense and structured, with rich currant and blackberry flavors balanced by savory notes of anise, iron and loamy earth. Harmonious, though still reserved.—Non-blind San Vicente vertical (November 2019). Best from 2025 through 2040.