PERRIER-JOUËT Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV $80 (93 points)

Rich and toasty up front, with a smoky mineral underpinning and notes of brioche and roasted nut, this is nonetheless lithe and graceful throughout, integrating a spine of vibrant acidity with the lovely palate of apricot, honeysuckle and pickled ginger flavors set on the satinlike mousse. Drink now through 2025.