BERTANI Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2009 $130 (91 points)

An elegant red, medium- to full-bodied and mineral-driven, offering hints of tar-tinged smoke and cured tobacco as a savory foil for the wild cherry and singed orange-peel flavors. Fresh and well-knit, with fine-grained tannins emerging on the lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2029.