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This week we explore some of the different styles of Chardonnay coming out of California, from rich and creamy to structured and elegant. Vintners continue to experiment with the grape, especially those in cool-climate sites along the coast who emphasize the grape's natural acidity.
The highest-scoring wines in this selection hail from the Russian River Valley, where the combination of diverse soils, warm days and cool, foggy nights lends vibrant acidity to the region's Chardonnays. Dehlinger winemaker Eva Dehlinger coaxes rich flavors and an elegant texture from her family's 8 acres of estate Chardonnay vines, which are planted on the region's Goldridge soils. For a white with a little more age, look for Windracer, a partnership between Jackson Family Wines chairman Barbara Banke and Peggy Furth, the former co-proprietor of Chalk Hill.
Fans of fruit-driven Chardonnays will enjoy Rombauer's Carneros bottling. Winemaker Richie Allen and his team pressed whole-cluster Chardonnay and aged it in a combination of French and American oak—one third of it new—to achieve the winery's signature plush and creamy style.
One appellation to watch is the Arroyo Grande Valley in San Luis Obispo County. Home to a handful of wineries, the 16-mile-long valley has a northeast to southwest orientation, which allows coastal fog to flow inland, making it ideal for cool-climate grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Talley's juicy and unctuous Chardonnay shows how expressive the region's wines can be.
DEHLINGER Chardonnay Russian River Valley Un-Filtered 2016
Elegant and finely textured, with rich, lusciously spiced flavors of pear tart, Fuji apple and allspice. The minerally finish offers buttery richness. Drink now through 2022. 1,380 cases made.
J Chardonnay Russian River Valley Bow Tie Vineyard 2016
Rich and spicy, with luscious flavors of apple pastry, baked pear and ripe tropical fruits that lengthen out nicely. Dried quince and crème brûlée notes show on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 800 cases made.
WINDRACER Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2015
Rich-tasting, with fine-grained flavors of apple tart, pear and quince paste backed by fresh acidity. The minerally finish is long and features plush, buttery accents. Drink now through 2021. 1,804 cases made.
LA CREMA Chardonnay Anderson Valley 2016
Poached pear and apple tart flavors are rich and well-crafted in this creamy style. White chocolate hints show on the crisp finish. Drink now through 2022. 602 cases made.
LANDMARK Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Damaris Reserve 2016
Rich, filled with concentrated apple pastry, pear tart and creamy flavors supported by fresh acidity. The custardy finish is long and well-spiced. Drink now through 2022. 1,107 cases made.
ROMBAUER Chardonnay Carneros 2017
A creamy and plush style, with plenty of pastry notes to the pear tart and baked apple flavors. Hints of nutmeg show on the broad finish. Drink now through 2022. 190,000 cases made.
SANFORD Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills 2016
Focused and minerally tasting, with subtle toasty notes to the pear tart, baked apple and dried tropical fruit flavors, supported by fresh acidity. Offers a long, spicy finish. Drink now through 2022. 7,498 cases made.
TALLEY Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley 2016
Juicy and unctuous, with spicy notes enhancing the Fuji apple and Meyer lemon flavors. Light buttery details fill the minerally finish, showing a flourish of richness. Drink now through 2023. 6,749 cases made.