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One of wine's great virtues is its diversity. Distinct grapes give different expressions of the wines they make that reflect the terroirs they're grown in and each year's growing season.
Spain is the original home of around 400 different wine grapes, including some that have achieved greater fame in foreign lands—Grenache, for example, the pillar of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in France, was likely an emigrant from Spain, where it is known as Garnacha.
Today, about 20 grapes account for the majority of Spanish wine, but winemakers are increasingly looking to more obscure varieties to showcase emerging regions. Here are seven wines, all made from different grapes, that offer fine quality and value.
HERÈNCIA ALTÉS Terra Alta L'Estel 2016
WS review: This firm red delivers mineral and sanguine notes that frame a core of plum and licorice flavors, revealing a balance of savory and fruity character. Shows depth, with well-integrated tannins and balsamic acidity. Drink now through 2026. 672 cases imported.
Why it's of note: The Terra Alta region, like its more famous neighbor Priorat, uses mainly Garnacha to make its red wines. The vineyards are planted at high elevations and are subject to strong winds; this allows the grapes to ripen fully without over-ripening. This Herència Altés cuvée blends Garnacha with Cariñena and Syrah, all grown organically.
BODEGAS OLARRA Rioja Cerro Añon Reserva 2015
WS review: Cedar and sandalwood notes mingle with flavors of cherry, tobacco, forest floor and licorice in this savory red. Polished and balanced, harmonious and deep. Drink now through 2025. 12,000 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Rioja is Spain's premier region for red wines, which are dominated by the Tempranillo grape. A versatile variety, it can make ripe, fruit-forward wines, or more supple and savory versions in the traditional style. This Bodegas Olarra wine aged for 20 months in oak barrels, to soften the tannins and harmonize the flavors.
CASAL DE ARMÁN Ribeiro White Eira dos Mouros 2017
WS review: This expressive white offers flint and briny notes, with pear and quince flavors, finishing with floral and spice details. Generous and lively. Drink now through 2022. 700 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Ribeiro is located in the cool, hilly region of Galicia in Spain's northwest. Long neglected, its vineyards are being revived by adventurous vintners, bringing nearly forgotten grapes back to prominence. Here, the local Treixadura grape is the star. Light pressing, a cool fermentation and some lees contact emphasizes the mineral character of this wine from Casal de Armán.
RAFAEL PALACIOS Godello Valdeorras Louro 2017
WS review: Peach, quince and lime flavors mingle with notes of lemon cream, heather and grapefruit in this expressive white. The texture is broad, but crisp acidity keeps this focused. Drink now. 1,098 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Valdeorras neighbors Ribeiro but is farther inland, lending more generosity to its wines. Rafael Palacios, nephew to star vintner Álvaro Palacios, has earned his own kudos as arguably the top winemaker in the region. Here, he uses the Godello grape planted on granitic soils to make an intense, harmonious white.
ETXANIZ TXAKOLINA Getariako Txakolina Txomin Etxaniz 2018
WS review: This white is crisp and lively, energized by a light spritz and rapier acidity. Grapefruit and sea salt notes accent a core of white peach flavors and accents of fresh herbs. Tartly refreshing. Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza. Drink now. 2,000 cases imported.
Why it's of note: This tongue-twister of a winery, Etxaniz Txakolina, blends two tongue-twisting white grapes called Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza to make a light, crisp, briny white with electric acidity and a lively spritz. It comes from the Basque country on Spain's northwestern coast. This is the oldest estate in the region.
BODEGAS SAN VALERO Cariñena Particular 2016
WS review: This round red delivers sweet and savory flavors, with black cherry and blackberry fruit balanced by smoky, licorice and sanguine notes. The tannins are well-integrated, the acidity fresh and lively. Drink now through 2024. 4,503 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Bodegas San Valero, a cooperative winery, was founded in 1944 in the north-central region of Cariñena. The region's high-altitude vineyards grow mostly Garnacha, but this wine is 100 percent Cariñena, the grape. A long maceration is followed by six months in American oak barrels, giving depth and polish to this earthy, minerally red.
VICENTE GANDÍA Bobal Utiel-Requena Bo 2016
WS review: This fresh red offers a round, supple texture. Cherry, leafy and loamy earth flavors mingle over light tannins, kept fresh by orange peel acidity. Harmonious. Drink now through 2022. 2,000 cases imported.
Why it's of note: The Bobal grape is one of Spain's most widely planted red varieties, but has lingered in obscurity in its home region of Utiel-Requena, near Valencia in southeastern Spain. It generally shows lightly bitter and sanguine notes, like this example from Vicente Gandía.