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Chenin Blanc is central to South Africa's winemaking. In fact, South Africa is the largest grower of Chenin in the world, surpassing the grape's original home of France. South Africa offers a wide range of styles of the grape, from dry and refreshing to rich and sweet, with some sparklers for good measure. The country has incredible natural beauty, but if you can't make it there, today's selection has you covered with different expressions of what Chenin has to offer.
MULLINEUX Old Vines Swartland White 2017
WS review: A ripe, creamy style, with melon, pear and heather notes gliding along, inlaid with light brioche and lemon curd accents. Ends with a flash of honeysuckle that leaves a bright, mouthwatering echo. Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Viognier and Sémillon. Drink now through 2022. 300 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Chenin Blanc's vines are vigorous and high-yielding, but as they age, they produce fewer berries, concentrating the aromas of the final wine. This aromatic white from sustainable producer Mullineux demonstrates this, tapping Chenin from vines as old as 65 years, sourced from just three parcels.
BELLINGHAM Chenin Blanc Coastal Region The Bernard Series Old Vine Limited Release 2017
WS review: A medium-bodied, stylish version, with toasted hazelnut aromas and flavors that glide along, while hints of pine and white pepper underscore the Bosc pear and quince notes. This turns savory midpalate, as mineral details echo on the well-defined finish. For the fans of the style. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. Best from 2021 through 2027. 650 cases imported.
Why it's of note: This white from Bellingham, one of South Africa's oldest estates, shows several hallmark Chenin characteristics, such as its orchard, mineral and nutty notes. This producer is focused on maintaining biodiversity and a low-carbon footprint.
DELAIRE GRAFF Chenin Blanc Swartland Reserve 2017
WS review: Orange blossom, persimmon and spicy mineral flavors are underscored by electric acidity and mineral undertones. Shows focus, with good length and harmony overall. Sea salt accents linger on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 300 cases imported.
Why it's of note: There are several microclimates in Swartland, but it is generally hot and dry. Bush vines, like those used to make this Delaire Graff reserve Chenin, do notably well in these conditions, and can yield concentrated, mineral versions of the grape.
LIEVLAND Chenin Blanc Paarl Old Vines 2017
WS review: Notes of toast and salted butter enhance this Chenin, which also features details of white peach at the core. Lively and flavorful, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 250 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Chenin is incredibly versatile and sings the characteristics of specific sites. This expression from Lievland was sourced from just two vineyards, including vines from the Eenzaamheid estate, which has been owned by Paarl's Briers-Louw family for seven generations.
CEDERBERG Floriography Blooming White Western Cape 2017
WS review: Off-dry, with flavors of elderflower and passion fruit mingling at the core, this is velvety in texture, with just enough acidity. Vanilla bean notes emerge on the finish. Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Weisser Riesling and others. Drink now. 4,000 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Chenin makes lauded sweet wines from France's Loire Valley to South Africa's Western Cape, with varying levels of sweetness; this Cederberg white falls into the off-dry style. The bottling was named for the impressive bloom of wildflowers that grow each summer in South Africa's arid Namaqualand region.
ESSAY WINES Chenin Blanc Coastal Region 2018
WS review: This is marked by flavors of yellow apple and lively acidity. Savory mineral details emerge on the moderately long finish. Drink now. 3,000 cases imported.
Why it's of note: Chenin is also used as a blending grape throughout the New World, where it adds acidity and complexity to whites based on Chardonnay or Rhône varieties, most commonly. Here, Essay Wines' Chenin is blended with Viognier and Roussanne. It would make a great pairing with a mild cheese like halloumi.