6 Alsace Essentials for French Wine Lovers (Wine Spectator)
Tasting Highlights’ wine reviews are fresh out of the tasting room, offering a sneak peek of our editors’ most recent scores and notes to WineSpectator.com members.
With 38,000 acres of vines, 51 grand cru vineyards and a multitude of organic and biodynamic wineries, France’s Alsace region offers a wide range of expressive, high-quality bottlings that have gained quite a following. Today’s selection rounds up recent reviews of three of Alsace’s staple grape varieties: Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. They’ll come in handy for your next wine pairing—especially if you’re eating choucroute or Muenster cheese.
PAUL BLANCK Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg 2015 Score: 92 | $39
WS Review: A bass note of smoky mineral drums beneath the ripe and floral Gala apple, almond blossom and lemon zest notes in this creamy white. Fresh and focused, with a lasting, spiced finish. Drink now through 2028. 600 cases imported.—Alison Napjus
Why It’s of Note: Riesling is one of the most widely planted varieties in Alsace, and makes a range of styles, from bone-dry to off-dry to sweet wines. Rieslings hailing from Alsace’s grand cru vineyards, like this Schlossberg from Paul Blanck, are prestigious, expressive demonstrations of the region’s distinct terroirs along the Vosges Mountains.
TRIMBACH Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve Personnelle 2014 Score: 91 | $50
WS Review: This displays ample mineral and spice notes on the nose, carrying through to the lively palate’s flavors of blood orange sorbet, pomegranate, spring blossom and lemon pith. Long and creamy, this well-honed white offers a lasting chime of mineral on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 500 cases imported.—A.N.
Why It’s of Note: Since the 17th century, the Trimbach family has honed its skills with Alsace’s premier grape varieties, including Pinot Gris. The region makes fuller-bodied versions of the grape than its Italian counterparts, with an emphasis on stone fruit and smoky mineral aromatics. Trimbach makes the Réserve Personelle only from parcels they deem exceptional; the bottling reflects Alsace’s bold style of Pinot Gris.
ZIND-HUMBRECHT Gewürztraminer Alsace Turckheim 2016 Score: 91 | $30
WS Review: Cream, rose petal and spice accents waft from the glass of this plushly textured, medium-bodied white, while vivid acidity provides a fine, balancing frame for the palate’s lychee, apricot, tangerine and stony mineral notes. Drink now through 2026. 908 cases imported.—A.N.
Why It’s of Note: A leader of biodynamic practices in the region, Zind-Humbrecht offers a wide selection of bottlings, including numerous single-vineyard wines. Owner and winemaker Olivier Humbrecht makes this particular Gewürztraminer from vineyards located around the town of Turckheim. Showing classic Gewürztraminer character, this balanced white is an approachable introduction to another one of Alsace’s signature grapes.
HUGEL Pinot Gris Alsace Classic 2016 Score: 90 | $23
WS Review: Lithe and juicy, this well-balanced Pinot Gris is backed by sleek acidity that focuses the flavors of melon, pickled ginger, star fruit and mineral. Clean-cut finish. Drink now through 2023. 1,500 cases imported.—A.N.
Why It’s of Note: Due to a cool harvest season in 2016, Hugel‘s Pinot Gris vineyards in Riquewihr were handpicked fairly late in the year. The grapes experienced a slower ripening, letting them develop both richness and balanced acidity. The result is a wine that holds its own perfectly with classics like scallops, pâté and smoked meats.
MURÉ Riesling Alsace Les Calcaires Jaunes 2016 Score: 90 | $25
WS Review: Finely meshed, this subtle, light- to medium-bodied white weaves mouthwatering acidity with notes of Honeycrisp apple, pickled ginger, star fruit and minerally smoke and stone that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
Why It’s of Note: Now with its 12th generation of winemakers at the helm, Thomas and Véronique, the Muré family has a long history of winemaking in Alsace. In 1999, the estate’s 62 acres of vines were converted to organic viticulture, and the team has since employed additional biodynamic practices. Muré’s wines are fermented in neutral oak and aged on their lees in stainless steel. The results are balanced, fresh examples, like this distinctly mineral and expressive Riesling.
KOENIG Riesling Alsace 2017 Score: 87 | $15
WS Review: A lithe, zesty white, with lime granita, star fruit, chalk and spice notes. Light-bodied and lively. Drink now. 3,750 cases imported.—A.N.
Why It’s of Note: Alsace offers a variety of styles, from light and crisp to rich and full-bodied. The Rieslings tend toward the light-bodied side, and this version from Koenig is a fine example of a refreshing aperitif style. It’s enjoyable on its own, but can also pair well with a shellfish or seafood dish, such as steamed mussels or rainbow trout.
