8 Intriguing California Red Wine Blends (Wine Spectator)
Tasting Highlights’ wine reviews are fresh out of the tasting room, offering a sneak peek of our editors’ most recent scores and notes to WineSpectator.com members.
Blending different grapes can add complexities and textures to a wine that a single grape may not be able to achieve. This week we highlight eight unique California red blends that stood out from recent tastings.
Rhône varieties such as Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are commonly combined, with harmonious results. California Rhône pioneer Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon has been making his Old World–style Le Cigare Volant for 30-plus years. The blend is typically dominated by Grenache, which gives the wine its fruity and spicy core. Syrah and Mourvèdre lend the smoky and leathery notes in this vintage; a touch of Cinsault can add a perfumed note in some years. Last month, Grahm announced he would be discontinuing Le Cigare Volant in its current form with the 2017 vintage. He will give the wine a new label and supplement the Mourvèdre for the Cinsault.
Rutherford Hill takes a Bordeaux-style approach to their Barrel Select blend, using three Bordeaux grapes with a touch of Syrah to craft a well-structured and powerfully spiced red.
Taking a kitchen-sink-blend approach is Decoy, Duckhorn Wine Company’s popular value brand. Combining Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot, it pulls a little from each variety, yielding a winning combination of aromas and flavors.
BONNY DOON Le Cigare Volant Central Coast 2015 Score: 92 | $45
Precise and appealingly Old World in style, offering smoky raspberry, spice box and black olive flavors and a hint of leather, finishing with refined tannins. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsaut. Drink now through 2025. 2,400 cases made.—Tim Fish
689 CELLARS Killer Drop California 2015 Score: 90 | $25
Broad and expressive, with sturdy black cherry, licorice and peppered mocha flavors. Grenache, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Merlot. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases made.—T.F.
KOKOMO Cuvée North Coast 2017 Score: 90 | $26
A hearty blend, with zesty black cherry, smoky bacon and cracked pepper flavors that build toward well-buffed tannins. Syrah, Grenache, Carignane and Petite Sirah. Drink now through 2025. 815 cases made.—T.F.
RUTHERFORD HILL Barrel Select Napa Valley 2015 Score: 90 | $35
Powerfully spiced, with well-structured flavors of cherry, raspberry and plum, backed by fresh tannins. The minerally finish offers slate and savory accents. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2022. 4,016 cases made.—Kim Marcus
DECOY Red Sonoma County 2016 Score: 89 | $25
Fruity, with rich acidity backing the dried cherry, plum and brambly flavors. Notes of iodine show midpalate, revealing Asian spice and green herbal accents on the finish. Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2021. 40,000 cases made.—K.M.
MORGAN Cotes du Crow’s Monterey 2017 Score: 88 | $20
Easygoing and discreetly zesty, with floral raspberry and spicy vanilla flavors. Grenache, Syrah and Tempranillo. Drink now through 2023. 5,320 cases made.—T.F.
TENSHEN Santa Barbara County 2017 Score: 88 | $25
Fruit-forward and zesty, with raspberry notes and spicy, toasty oak accents. Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Merlot and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2022. 8,000 cases made.—T.F.
GHOST PINES Winemaker’s Blend Santa Barbara-Lake-Sonoma Counties 2016 Score: 87 | $23
Appealing if rather ordinary, showing zesty blackberry and cracked pepper flavors. Zinfandel, Syrah, Tannat and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2023. 9,000 cases made.—T.F.